London to Albania by train (2024)

The statue of Skënderbeg, Albania's national hero, in Skënderbeg Square in Tiranë

Visiting Albania by train

Albania, known to Albaniansas Shqipëria or Land of the Eagles, was once Europe's most mysterious country. A Stalinist dictatorship from 1946 to 1991, it shut itself off from the rest of the world. However, the Communist regime was overturned in 1991 and most of Albania is now safe to visit. It's easy to reach from western Europe by train to Italy then ferry across the Adriatic, or it can be reached overland by train to Montenegro then bus or taxi across the border into Albania. It's a fascinating country that will challenge your pre-conceptions of things Albanian.

Things to see in Albania

Hotels in Albania

General European train travel information

LuggageTaking bikesTaking dogs

There are no international passenger trains between Albania and the rest of Europe, and travel in some of the border regions is inadvisable (seewww.fco.gov.uk), so the fastest, easiest and most comfortable way to reach Albania is to take a train to Bari in Italy and sail overnight to Durrës by ferry. The journey from London to Albania is quite straightforward and can all be booked from the UK. If you'd rather travel overland by train to Montenegro then by taxi or bus, see thenext section.

London ► Tiranë

• Day 1, travel from London toParis byEurostar, leaving London St Pancras at09:24 arriving Paris Nord at 12:57.

  Cross Paris by metro or taxi to the Gare de Lyon (2 stops on RER line D).

  Tip: By all means book an earlier Eurostar and have lunch at the remarkableTrain Bleu restaurant inside the Gare de Lyon.

• Important update 2024: The direct Paris-Milan line via Modane was blocked by a landslide on 27 August 2023 and is likely to remain blocked until at least the end of 2024. The afternoon Paris-Milan train shown below is running, but with a bus around the landslide and later arrival in Milan, until further notice. Alternatively, until the line is reopened you can travel via Switzerland instead, with an earlier departure from London,see the alternative timetable here,more information here.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Milan by high-speed TGV, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 14:48 and arriving Milan Porta Garibaldi at 21:49.

  The TGV has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. It's a relaxing and comfortable journey, passing directly from France into Italy via Modane and the Mont Cénis tunnel through the Alps. What's the journey like? See the Paris-Milan TGV video guide.

• Stay overnight in Milan.TheAC Milano Hotel (a Marriott Lifestyle Hotel) is 350m from Milan Porta Garibaldi station and gets good reviews.

• Day 2, travel from Milan to Bari by Frecciarossa, leaving Milan Porta Garibaldi at 10:13 and arriving Bari Centrale at 17:27.

  The high-speed Frecciarossa has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. The train follows the Adriatic coast for much of the way, past small towns and seaside resorts. In Bari, you can walk (25 minutes) or take a taxi to the ferry terminal, which is next to Bari's attractive old town.

  Tip: Check the ferry check-in procedures shown on your ticket. GNV requires you to check in and get a boarding pass at their office in the new port (Porto Nuovo) to the west of the old port, before taking a free shuttle bus back to the old port for boarding.

  If you'd like to reach Bari earlier, there's an earlier 08:05Frecciarossa train from Milan Centrale (a short taxi ride or 25 minute walk from Milan Porta Garibaldi) arriving Bari Centrale at 15:27.

• Day 2, sail from Bari to Durrës in Albania by overnightferry, usually sailing around 22:00 and arriving around 07:00 or 08:00.

  The easiest way to check ferry times & prices for all ferry operators on this route is atwww.directferries.co.uk, which checks all operators at once. Grandi Navi Veloce (GNV,www.gnv.it) sail daily overnight departing Bari at 22:00 or 23:00 and arriving Durres at 08:00 (day 3 from London), Ventouris Ferries (www.ventouris.gr) also sail daily overnight to similar timings. Adria ferries (www.adriaferries.com) sail overnight too, also leaving at 22:00 or 23:00 and arriving at 08:00. Whichever operator you choose, a range of comfortable cabins is available on the overnight crossings.

• Day 3, morning:See thetimetable below for train service within Albania from Durrës.

Tiranë ► London

• Day 1, sail from Durrës to Bari by overnight ferry, usually sailing around 22:00 and arriving around 07:00 or 08:00.

  The easiest way to check ferry times & prices for all ferry operators on this route is atwww.directferries.co.uk, this checks all of them at once. Grandi Navi Veloce & Ventouris Ferries both sail daily leaving Durrës at 22:00 or 23:00 and arriving in Bari at 07:00 or 08:00 next morning, seewww.gnv.it &www.ventouris.gr. You can also try Adria ferries (www.adriaferries.com) who also sail overnight. Whichever operator you choose, a range of comfortable cabins is available.

• Day 2, travel from Bari to Milan by Frecciarossa leaving Bari Centrale at 10:30 and arrivingMilan Centrale at17:54.

  TheFrecciarossa has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. In Milan, it's a 25 minute walk, 5 minute metro ride or 8-minute taxi ride from Milan Centrale to Milan Porta Garibaldi,more info about the transfer here.

• Stay overnight in Milan, a beautiful city that's well worth an extra day for a stopover.TheAC Milano Hotel (a Marriott Lifestyle Hotel) is 350m from Milan Porta Garibaldi and gets good reviews.

• Day 3, travelfrom Milan to Paris byhigh-speed TGV, leaving Milan Porta Garibaldi at 06:00 and arriving Paris Gare de Lyon at 13:16.

  The TGV has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. It's a scenic journey through the Alps via the Mont Cénis tunnel, Modane and Chambéry.What's the journey like? See the Paris-Milan TGV video guide.

  Cross Paris by metro or taxi to theGare du Nord, 2 stops on RER line D.

• Important update 2024: The direct Milan-Paris line via Modane was blocked by a landslide on 27 August 2023 and will remain blocked until at least the end of 2024. The train above is cancelled until further notice. Until the direct line is reopened. you should travel from Milan to Paris via Switzerland instead,see the alternative timetable here,more information here.

• Day 3, travelfrom Paris to London byEurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:03 & arriving London St Pancras 16:39.

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Milan by TGV starts at €29 each way in 2nd class, €44 each way in 1st class.

• Milan to Bari starts at €29.90 in 2nd class or €39.90 in 1st class, each way.

• All these fares are dynamic, they vary like air fares depending how popular that date & train is, and how far ahead you book.

  See Also

  Hop on board the Eurostar with this guide for first timersTrain Ticket Booking Online, Use IRCTC Login | ixigoTrain Ticket Offers: Get 10% OFF Coupons on Train Booking | Jun 2024Vistadome Train Mumbai To Pune: Lonavala Route, Timetable

• Bari to Durres by ferry: The cost varies by operator, season & type of seat/berth/cabin. For example:

  €47-€65 each way in a reclining seat, depending on season (Adria).

  €51 each way with bed in outside 4-berth cabin (Ventouris Ferries).

  €74-€101 each way with a bed in a 2-berth outside cabin (Adria).

  Check prices onthe Direct Ferries website.

How to buy tickets

The 09:30 train to Durrës at Tiranë.

• Step 1, start by booking the ferry. You can check prices & sailing dates for all Italy-Albania ferry operatorsusingthe Direct Ferries website. The price you initially see is for a 'deck place', you can add a cabin at the next stage. When you book, you are emailed a confirmation which you present at check-in to exchange for your boarding pass.

• Step 2, go to European train booking sitewww.raileurope.com. There's a small booking fee but all tickets can be booked easily in plain English all in one place. Anyone from any country worldwide can use raileurope.com as all international credit cards are accepted. Who are Raileurope.com?

  Booking for Eurostar opens up to 6 months ahead, for the TGV & Italian trains usually up to 4 months ahead, although British domestic trains usually only open around 90 days ahead.

  First book from 'London (any station)' to 'Milan (any station)', looking for the journey by Eurostar & TGV listed above which will be shown in the search results as having 1 change. Add this to your basket.It can help to read the detailed booking tips here. Raileurope.com can in fact book from any station in Britain, not just London.

  Use the suggested Eurostar times on this page as a guide, but feel free to choose an earlier Eurostar from London southbound, or a later Eurostar returning from Paris northbound, if these have cheaper seats available or if you'd like to stop off in Paris. To stop off and perhaps have lunch in Paris, run a London to Milan enquiry after clicking 'More options', entering 'Paris' and setting a stopover of however many hours you want.

  Second, book from Milan to Bari for the following day, add this to your basket and check out, paying for all your tickets as one transaction.

  You'll get print-at-home tickets for the Eurostar & the TGV, the Trenitalia train is ticketless, you simply print out the booking reference or show it on your phone. Easy!

• Alternatively, each train can also be booked atwww.thetrainline.com, easily in plain English, in €, £ or $, also with print-your-own, show-on-phone tickets or ticketless. Who are Thetrainline.com?

• Alternatively, you can book each train separately direct from the relevant operator with no booking fee, although this means more work and the fares will be the same. First book your London-Paris train at www.eurostar.com, and the Paris-Milan TGV atwww.sncf-connect.com. Both sites give print-at-home tickets with no booking fee. You can then book the Milan to Bari train at the Italian Railways website www.trenitalia.com (requires Italian-language place names and has a few quirks, but no booking fee,see this advice on how to use it), looking for a cheap Economy or Super-Economy fare. You pay online and quote your reservation reference to the conductor on the train.

How to book by phone

• To book train tickets by phone, try Ffestiniog Travel or International Rail,.

Let Byway.travel arrange it for you

• Byway (Byway.travel) is a UK-based eco-holiday firm with a5-star TrustPilot rating.

  They offer a flight-free package from London to Albania with trains, ferry & overnight hotels booked for you as a package. Go to Byway.travel, click Destinations and then Albania. Please say you heard about them from Seat 61.

  Or they can build a trip to your requirements, email them or use the contact form. Byway includes package protection, 100% Covid refund guarantee, free disruption & re-planning and WhatsApp support while you're away.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph). There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi. Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00). There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train. .St Pancras station guide. Paris Gare du Nord station guide. How to cross Paris by metro or taxi.

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.More about Eurostar.		1st class: Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Lunch in Paris at the Train Bleu restaurant?

The trains to Italy leave from the magnificent Gare de Lyon in central Paris. Why not have lunch (or at least a drink in the bar) atthe fabulous Train Bleu Restaurant inside the Gare de Lyon (pictured above right) before catching the train to Turin or Milan? Paris Gare de Lyon station guide.

2. Paris to Milan by TGV

SNCF (French Railways) operates three daily 186 mph TGV trains from Paris to Milan. Previously operated by Artesia, a consortium of Trenitalia & SNCF, they are now operated entirely by SNCF, officially via a new Italian subsidiary, Società Viaggiatori Italia. On leaving Paris they sprint over the high-speed line at up to 186 mph (300 km/h) as far as Lyon St Exupéry, but they then slow right down to meander through the scenic Alpine foothills on conventional lines via Chambéry, crossing into Italy at Modane and heading through Turin to Milan. These TGVs have 1st & 2nd class seats and are fully air-conditioned, with new interiors designed by Christian Lacroix. There are power sockets for laptops and mobiles at every seat and there are baby-changing facilities and designated spaces for passengers in wheelchairs. There's a cafe-bar serving drinks, snacks & light meals, or feel free to bring your own food & wine along for the journey. In first class you can order a 3-course meal with wine, served at your seat. You can now buy Paris metro tickets from the bar car, too. 1st class TGV passengers can use the Grand Voyageurs 1st class lounge at Paris Gare de Lyon.Incidentally, SNCF's experienced in-house designer still hasn't forgiven Christian Lacroix for breaking the unwritten rule and using warm colours in 2nd class, cooler colours in 1st class, so see what you think!Paris Gare de Lyon station guide.Milan Porta Garibaldi station guide.

The afternoon TGV to Milan at Paris Gare de Lyon. There's no check-in, just be on board at departure time.

2nd class with mix of unidirectional seats & tables for 4. Seats 2+2 across car width. Larger photo.		The cheese platter bought from the cafe-bar as the mountains swept by.

Cafe-bar selling tea, coffee, beer, wine, cold snacks & microwaved dishes. Larger photo.		1st class with mix of unidirectional seats, solo seats, tables for 2 & 4. Seats 2+1 across car width.Larger photo.

The TGV leaves Paris behind & speeds across rural France at up to 186 mph, past fields, woods, pretty villages.

It calls at Lyon St Exupery then slows right down through the Alpine foothills.

The TGV crosses the Alps via Chambéry and Modane, passing through the 13.6 km (8.5 mile) longFréjus Rail Tunnel, also known less accurately as the Mont Cénis tunnel. The tunnel transit takes just 7 minutes, during which the train enters Italy. Opened in 1871, this the oldest of the large tunnels through the Alps, and was the longest tunnel in the world from 1871 until 1882 when the Gotthard tunnel opened on the Zurich-Milan route.

More mountains.		Now we're in Italy, leaving the Alps behind.

Scenery between Oulx and Turin.Photos courtesy of DiscoverbyRail.com.

Arrival at Milan's modern Porta Garibaldi station, an 8-minute €8 taxi ride or 25 minute walk from Milan's main Centrale station.

3. Milan to Bari by Frecciarossa 500

The Frecciarossa 500 has 4 classes, Standard, Premium, Business and Executive. There's a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Business class includes complimentary coffee, juice or prosecco and snacks. Executive class includes a more comprehensive food & drink service.

Frecciarossa 500 atMilan Centrale.

Business class, cars 1-4.		Luggage space between seats.

Executive class includes a complimentary cold tray meal with wine and prosecco.		Cafe-bar in car 5, available to all passengers for coffee, beer, wine, snacks.

Bari Centrale. The ferry terminal is 25 minutes walk away, through the old town. Courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com.

4. Bari to Durres in Albania by ferry

The GNV ferry Azzurra, one of the ships which operate the Bari-Durres service. Courtesy of Gwylan Williams

Traveller's reports

Traveller Gwylan Williams sailed from Bari to Durres with GNV in 2019: "The ferry was very good, and we had a smooth crossing. There were a lot of staff available to help with luggage etc, all in crisp, clean, uniforms. The bunk beds were nice and wide, comfortable and clean, we both slept very well. The en suite shower room was good too, with a decent shower and plenty of hot water. Although the sailing was late at night, there was freshly cooked food available, they seemed geared up to cater for the lorry drivers. Good breakfast too. We couldn't change money for Leks on board but they told us where to go once we landed at Durres and we had a perfectly good exchange rate there."

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You can also travel overland to Albania, by train from London & Paris to Belgrade, then thespectacular railway from Belgrade to Podgorica or Bar in Montenegro, then by bus or taxi to the border and on to Shkodër, for the daily Albanian train to Tiranë. There may be security concerns in some border areas of Albania, so check the latest Foreign Office travel advice at www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice. The overland option generally takes a day or two longer than the more straightforward train & ferry option via Italy, but you can stop off and see some remarkable parts of the Balkans on the way, such as Belgrade and Montenegro. Why not go out by ferry and back overland, or vice versa? Here's how to travel overland:

London ► Tiranë

• Step 1, travel from London or Paris to Belgrade as shown on the London to Serbia page. The journey takes 2 days and 1 night, or 2 nights. Arrange train tickets as shown on that page. Allow at least 2 or 3 hours in Belgrade for onward connections (or stop overnight) as trains may arrive in Belgrade an hour or two late. The Zagreb-Belgrade train is still suspended due to Covid-19, Serbia currently cut off.

• Step 2, then take a train from Belgrade to Podgorica or Bar in Montenegro over the fabulous Belgrade-Bar railway. There is a choice of daytime train or overnight sleeper train on this route. The daytime train means a long journey but it's a good choice for the fantastic scenery along this remarkable rail line. However, it requires an overnight in Podgorica or Bar. The sleeper train is more time-effective and it puts you in Podgorica or Bar in the morning with time to make your way to Shkodër in Albania that day, and you'll still see the best scenery at the southern end of the line.. You can check train times at the Serbian Railways website www.srbvoz.rs. Buy your ticket at the station.

• Step 3, you have a choice of going via Bar or Podgorica, as follows:

  Option 1, get off at Podgorica

  Buses link Podgorica with Shkoder & Tiranë once or twice a day, trybusticket4.me/EN.

  Alternatively, take a Montenegrin taxi from Podgorica to the Albanian border at Han i Hot for around €20, cross into Albania, then take an Albanian taxi from Han i Hot to Shkodër for around €20 more. The total distance from Podgorica to Shkodër is 59.7 km, the journey should take about 90 minutes including a change of taxis at the border crossing. Stay overnight in Shkodër. Next day, take a bus to Durrës & Tiranë.Map of Podgorica/Bar/Shkodër area.

  Option 2, get off at Bar

  Walk 250m from Bar station to Bar's main bus station. Buses run from Bar to Ulcinj every hour or two from 08:50 until 22:45, journey time about half an hour, fare around €2.50. Then there are three buses a day from Ulcinj (Montenegro) to Shkodër via the Muriqan border crossing, departing Ulcinj main bus station at 06:00, 12:30 & 16:30, taking an hour, fare around €6, or you can take a taxi from Ulcinj to Shkoder for around €15-€20. You can then stay overnight and travel on to Tiranë.Map of Podgorica/Bar/Shkodër area.

Tiranë ► London

• Day 1, take a bus from Tiranë & Durrës to Shkodër, as the train is not currently running.

• On day 2, you have a choice:

  Option 1 is to travel by taxi to Podgorica in Montenegro as follows: Travel by taxi via the Han i Hot border to Podgorica in Montenegro, or travel by bus to Ulcinj then another bus to Bar in Montenegro. If you choose the taxi option, the total journey from Shkodër to Podgorica is 59.7 km, and should take about 90 minutes including the need to change taxis at the border. Each of the two taxis should cost in the region of €20.Map of Podgorica/Bar/Shkodër area.

  Option 2 is travel by bus to Ulcinj in Montenegro then onwards by bus to Bar. There are three buses a day from Shkodër to Ulcinj in Montenegro via the Muriqan border crossing, at the time of writing these were at 09:00, 14:15 & 16:00, fare around €6, journey time around an hour. There are then regular buses from Ulcinj to Bar every hour or two, journey time half an hour, fare around €2.50. Alternatively, a taxi from Shkodër to the border at Muriqan and on to Ulcinj should cost about €15-€20.Map of Podgorica/Bar/Shkodër area.

• Two daily trains link Bar & Podgorica with Belgrade Topcider station, one a daytime train, the other an overnight sleeper with sleeping-cars and seats, . The sleeper train will save you time as you can leave in the evening of day 2 and arrive in Belgrade on the morning of day 3. But staying overnight and taking the day train is good because of the fantastic scenery along this route (you'd then arrive in the evening of day 3). You can check train times at the Serbian Railways website www.srbvoz.rs, and book the train from Belgrade to Podgorica or Bar at the station.

• Travel from Belgrade to Paris or London as shown on the London to Serbia page. The journey takes 2 days and 1 night, or 2 nights. Arrange train tickets as shown on that page. The Belgrade to Zagreb train is still suspended due to Covid-19, Serbia is cut off.

Feedback from travellers using this route would be very welcome.

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The view from the train from Durrës & Tiranë to Pogradec. Photo courtesy of Gabriel Chew

Travelling by train inAlbania is an experience not to be missed. Second handcoaches from Italy, Austria or Germany hauled by Czech-built diesels clickety-clack across the countryside at about 35 mph (or less!).Don't be surprised by torn seats or broken windows, butthen, what do you expect for 50p? You may be able to check these train times at www.hsh.com.al, but please also double-check locally. All trains are one class only.

Update 2024: In December 2023 there appeared to be no trains running at all The Durres-Kashar line is closed for rebuilding, it partly reopened in late 2023, but seems to have closed again. A Fri/Sat/Sun Durres-Elbasan train is running, but using a station called Plazh near Durres, not Durres station. Check the current situation.Feedback appreciated!

Fares & how to buy tickets

Fares are incredibly cheap. Durrës to Kashar one-way costs 70 Lek, or about 50p, with the city bus between Kashar and central Tiranë costing an extra 30 Lek. Durrës to Shkodër is 160 Lek, about £1. Tickets are not sold in advance, only for the nexttrain.

What are Albanian trains like?

Trains offer one class only. Most are composed of second-hand German suburban carriages like these. Photos courtesy of Philip Dyer-Perry.

The cars are grubby but perfectly comfortable. Above right, an Albanian Railways poster at Shkodër, showing a British Rail InterCity 125.

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There are no international trains to or from Albania, but here's how to travel to or from neighbouring countries by bus, taxi or ferry.

Travelling from Tiranë to Bar (Montenegro), Podgorica (Montenegro) & Belgrade (Serbia)

• Day 1, take the afternoon train from Tiranë to Shkodër (if running) and stay overnight.See the train times above. Take a bus if the train isn't running.

• On day 2, you have two options: Travel by taxi via the Han i Hot border to Podgorica in Montenegro, or travel by bus to Ulcinj then another bus to Bar in Montenegro.

  If you choose the taxi option, the total journey from Shkodër to Podgorica is 59.7 km, and should take about 90 minutes including the need to change taxis at the border. Each of the two taxis should cost in the region of €20.

  If you choose the bus option, there are three buses a day from Shkodër to Ulcinj in Montenegro via the Muriqan border crossing, at the time of writing these were 09:00, 14:15 & 16:00 (in the other direction, buses leave Ulcinj for Shkodër at 06:00, 12:30 & 16:30). There are then reasonably frequent buses from Ulcinj to Bar.

  Alternatively, a taxi from Shkodër to the border at Muriqan should cost about €10-€15, and a taxi from Muriqan to Ulcinj around €20-€25.

• Two daily trains link Bar & Podgorica with Belgrade, one a daytime train, the other an overnight sleeper with sleeping-cars and couchettes, see Montenegro-Belgrade page. The sleeper train will save you time as you can leave in the evening of day 2 and arrive in Belgrade on the morning of day 3. But staying the evening of day 3).

• International trains link Belgrade with Budapest, Vienna, Zagreb, Bucharest and many other European destinations,see the international trains from Belgrade page or use the journey planner atint.bahn.de to find train times.

• In the other direction for travel to Albania, simply reverse the steps shown above.

Ferries from Albania to Bari or Ancona (Italy)

• CheckTirrenia Line (formerly Adriatica Line)www.tirrenia.it(Bari-Durrës daily, several per week Ancona-Durrës) & www.agoudimos-lines.com(3-5 sailings a week Bari-Durrës),www.venezialines.com (fast ferry). For onward trains within Italy seewww.trenitalia.com.

Buses from Tiranë to Athens & Thessaloniki (Greece)

• There are at least two daily buses between Tiranë and Thessaloniki in Greece. Tiranë to Thessaloniki is a long journey with frequent delays at the border, so it's not to be undertaken lightly. Just ask at any travel agency locally in Tiranë or Athens. Fare around €30 one-way. Departures from Tirana at 05:00 (journey time 10h30) & 08:15 (journey time 11h00). Departures from Thessaloniki at 09:00 & 20:30, journey time 9h00. To book, tryktelmacedonia.gr/en/routes/&tid=43. From Thessaloniki you can take a comfortable train to Athens in about 5h,see details here.

• Feedback from anyone using these bus services would be very welcome.

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Statue of Skënderbeg (above left), Albania's nationalhero, in Skënderbeg Square in the centre ofTiranë. George Kastrioti (1405-1468) was anAlbanian who at a very young age was handed over tothe Turks as a hostage. The Turks convertedhim to Islam and gave him a military education inEdirne in Turkey, where he became known as'Alexander' ('Iskënder') after Alexander theGreat. He was made a lord ('bey') by the Turksbefore he turned against them, driving them out ofAlbania. 'Iskënder' + 'bey' ='Skënderbeg'. Above right, the communist mural onthe front of the National History Museum on Skënderbeg Square.

Above left, the former residence of Enver Hoxha(pronounced 'Hodja') in Tiranë. Enver Hoxhawas Albania's president and dictator from 1946 until hisdeath in 1985. Above right, the former EnverHoxha museum, now home to several cafes.Albania aligned itself with the USSR from 1944 until1960, when the two countries fell out over Khruschev's demands for a Soviet submarine base atVlorë. In 1961, Albania broke off diplomatic relations with the USSR and re-aligned itself with the Peoples Republic of China.

The mosque of Ethem Bey, dating from 1793, onSkënderbeg Square in Tiranë. The clock towernext to it dates from 1830.		Bunkers. Thereare some 750,000 of these small concrete bunkers allover the Albanian countryside. Theywere built on the orders of Enver Hoxha after the Sovietinvasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968.

TheRoman amphitheatre in Durrës, dating from the 2ndcentury AD and first excavated in around 1960.		Thehistoric town of Kruja, 38km from Tiranë, about an hour away by minibus-taxi.Skënderbeg made Kruja his capital from 1443 to 1468.

The 14:15train from Tiranë to Durrës calls at Vora.		"They wentthat-a-way..." A statue in Durrës.

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The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information. It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers. Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014. You can buy it online atwww.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) orwww.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south. Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted. See an extract from the map. Buy online atwww.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or atwww.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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