Voltage Reducer Install on a Club Car (2024)

I've scoured this site and Google for an answer. I get close but still not very clear. I have a '94 Club Car DS electric, Onboard Charger, No OBC, and I'm adding a voltage reducer with 5 wires, two wires for the batteries (48V), one for the Key switch and a larger Yellow and Black Output for the Accessories. I also have a fuse block.

The question is: Since CC has a common ground Block and doesn't use the Frame to ground, what do I do with that Black Output (-) wire?

It's currently set up using two of the 6V batteries from the Pack. There is a red wire from the end terminal on the 2nd battery going to the fuse block. I don't have a black wire specifically for the 12V accessory system, so I gather it comes from the B- terminal of the controller.

The instructions for the Reducer say that the Yellow (+) Output wire goes to the Fuse block. The Black Wire to the negative side of the Load (accessories), but there is No Negative terminal on the Fuse Block.

So where does the Black Output wire go? Do I connect it to the Ground block wherever that is, or to any wire connecting to the B- terminal of the controller? The ground block appears to be connected to the B- controller terminal according to a 1994 Transporter wiring Diagram.

When I get this settled, I'll probably asking how to install the Key Switch wire from the reducer, but one issue at a time.

Thank you, Joe

This is from a CC 1994 Transporter/Sender manual. They seem to be as accurate as any I've run across. The '94 was a 36V system and I added 2 more 6V batteries and upgraded the whole power system to 48V. I removed the OBC and The Charging port. I installed a Lester Summit II onboard charger. There may have been other changes made to the wiring before I bought it. It has full set of lights and Turn signals. The V-glide is about the only original piece since the 48V upgrade.

On these diagrams, the Ground block is attached to the B- post on the Controller. So, are you saying that's where I attach the Black Output wire, or tap into it with my negative output wire? The Black (ground) wire from the tail lights also appears to tie back into the B- post on the controller. Now I have an Alltrax SR Controller, not the old Curtis one. I haven't traced all of the wires and the colors change on some wires, most likely from other updates done before I bought the cart.

Does this help?

P.S. Yes it is a Trans-Sender, 6 seat. I assumed that was built out of a DS model. Aside from the seats it is a DS. 8-6V batteries. I added two more batteries, since it had new Trojan batteries in it when I bought it. All Primary wiring is new, as well as the Motor, Controller, Solenoid, FnR switch and Battery charger.

I got a tip from another forum which said that some of the cheaper reducers have the Negatives tied together internally. I bought a Pro Chaser Intelligent Converter which is probably is a cheap Chinese unit. And, theyre is continuity between the Input and Output Negative wires, which may mean that I really do not need to attach that output Black wire anywhere. I should be able to cap it for future add-ons. We'll see! I'll report back after the install.

Then I'll probably need some help with the Key Switch wire. Currently, I can turn on the lights and other stuff like the horn and reverse buzzer work with the key off. In the wiring diagram from the CC Manual, that single White/Black wire on the Right side go to the top terminal on the first Micro switch on the FnR. The bottom terminal, Green/White wire goes to the V-Glide. That will be next assuming I get the voltage reducer and fuse block working. Thanks, Joe

If you want the key to activate the voltage reducer then tap the white/black wire, you can connect at the key or microswitch. Connect the reducer key wire to the input positive instead if you want it to always be on.

If the reducer has both grounds connected internally then just tie it to any existing ground and be done, way easier than disconnecting all the wires from the controller and trying to figure out which is which

Thanks, Wizard! I do want the Key Switch to turn the accessory power on. It is on always now, and I've read where that the reducer can drain your batteries if not driven for a while. I gather like the black box transformers for laptops, etc. never turn off. And, it makes it more difficult to leave the lights on.

So, do you think that I do need to attach that output ground to another ground wire? That comment I got about them being tied together inside the reducer made it sound as if I didn't need to connect it anywhere. I guess it doesn't really matter as I'm sure I have a Black (ground) wire close by anyway. If I add more accessories, I could use that to fashion another ground block.

And, Yes, I really didn't want to unravel my harness to trace wires. Maybe one day I will install a new harness, but I have way too many projects ahead of that. Thanks, Again!

Joepiccaso said:

I got a tip from another forum which said that some of the cheaper reducers have the Negatives tied together internally.

Click to expand...

This. You can check it with a multimeter in ohms setting. An Isolated DC-DC converter is expensive, common ground is cheaper and far more common.

One last thing . . . hopefully, I have one wire from removing the old fuse block, a solid Blue wire, that I cannot Identify. There were 4 wires plus the Red positive wire. Red/White, Green/White, Yellow Heavier gauge, and a Blue wire. The Blue and the green/white had come loose from the old fuse block, so I was replacing that at the same time of the voltage reducer. Since it's an old cart ('94) and has had several wiring changes, I changed out the Controller and solenoid, removed the OBC and Charger port, so a lot of the wiring colors don't match diagrams I've been able to locate.

I'll probably just hook that Blue wire into the fuse block, but I sure would like to know where it goes. I have a color coded diagram for a '95-03 CC DS with 48V that shows a Blue wire from the Key Switch to the potentiometer.

My '94 CC manual's Diagram shows The key switch with a Black/White on the Right terminal and 2 Greens and a Red on the left terminal. It shows the fuse block with three wires I mentioned above, but no mention of a Blue wire at the fuse block. The Blue wire from the V-glide is shown going going to the solenoid, but not making a stop at the fuse block. I have not worked on the fuse block and the key switch since I had it. Prior to these wires coming loose it ran well.

It's looking like I may have to make a wiring diagram of what I have and then check it against a legit diagram. But, in the mean time, any thoughts of that lone Blue wire?

Just an update. I did get the voltage reducer and the fuse block installed. The problem I had before is apparently still there. Solenoid engages, but no movement. I was hoping that those two wires that I found disconnected from the old use block was the source of that issue, but I put it back together the way it was before. The only thing I did notice that the Key Switch wire from the reducer that I connected to the White/Black Key switch wire seems to have worked. Thank the Lord for small Favors! So, I'm back to square one. It just seems odd that it just quits working from one day to the next.

I'm still confused about the Blue wire that was tied to the Fuse box. No wiring diagram I se shows a Blue Wire to the Fuse box. Maybe it is from the Turn Signal switch that appears to be an add-on. I tied it back in, but I can't tell what it's for. I believe the Blue wire from the V-Glide is connected to the solenoid. That other Blue wire may come from the rear lights. There have been so many changes and upgrades and additional wiring where different color wire has been used or added in, tracing these is difficult. I guess I am going to just sit down and trace each wire and make a wiring diagram of my own so I'll know what I have. The V-Glide is about the only part that hasn't been updated. Maybe I should replace it as well. At least I'll be starting fresh.

There was one other thing I noticed, and that was when I pugged in the onboard battery charger my dash meter went way over to the Right into the Red as if over charging and the Lester Charger app would no longer connect. This is sounding like it's going to be a long Winter. Thanks everyone for the help, tips and encouragement. I'm still open to suggestions and I'll update as I go along. I'm down but not out!